AKD Tips & Tricks Document

I just updated and uploaded our AKD Tips & Tricks Document - click here to view it. This document has a little for everyone...from the beginner to the expert. I hope it can help guide you through the next time a problem arises :)
Have a great day!

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Help and Support

Don't forget, we have lots of help docs on our website - just click on the links below to see some of them.

• Embroidery Software Selection Help 
• Stitchout & Sewing Problem Help
• Helpful Tips & Docs 

I hope they can help you make your next project even better!
Have a great day!

~ ~ Bulk Discount Pricing is Automatic ~ ~
Buy 4 - 5 and pay only $5.50 each
Buy 6 - 7 and pay only $5.20 each
Buy 8 - 9 and pay only $5.00 each
Buy 10 - 20 and pay only $4.90 each

How to Select Machine Embroidery Thread

A lot of you already know these basics about machine embroidery thread, but we wanted to make sure that those that are new to embroidery have the information as well.

Types of Machine Embroidery Thread [this list doesn't include all types of embroidery thread]

• Polyester ~ Color-fast. Polyester thread eliminates looping, puckering and virtually all thread breaks. Suitable for almost any application. Vibrant colors, are glossy, as well as resistant to chlorine bleach, making polyester thread the ideal thread for embroidering on uniforms, safety garments and commercial linens.
• Rayon ~Not Color-fast. Rayon thread has an attractive high sheen, is readily available, and has consistent trouble-free performance, holding up to high-speed stitching without breaking or fraying.
• Metallic and Mylar ~great for holiday and fun projects ~ change one of the colors that the pattern calls for to a metallic color and change the whole look! Metallic thread is a little harder to handle [see our notes in our Tips & Tricks Document ~ click here].
  
• Cotton ~great for quilts and heirloom type projects.
  
• Silk ~great for high quality home decoration type projects.
  

Weights - smaller # is thicker and larger # is thinner...

• 50 & 60 ~ Thinnest threads. Uses include: small details [like lettering in logos] and delicate fabrics. If using this thread with a standard embroidery design, remember to increase the density of the design or it will probably be too sparse. For best results use a #75/11 needle.
• 40 ~ the standard and most common weight that most embroidery designs were digitized to use unless otherwise noted. For best results use a #75/11 or #80/12 needle.
• 30 & 12 ~ Thickest threads. Uses include: edging for badges and needlepoint effect in embroidery designs. If using this thread with a standard embroidery design, remember to lower the density of the design or it will probably be too dense. For best results use a #90/14 or #100/16 needle.
  

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~ ~ Bulk Discount Pricing is Automatic ~ ~
Buy 4 - 5 and pay only $5.50 each
Buy 6 - 7 and pay only $5.20 each
Buy 8 - 9 and pay only $5.00 each
Buy 10 - 20 and pay only $4.90 each

Applique Tip

Consider using a sheet of solvy topping on top of the applique fabric before the final stitch to cut down of some of the pokies that you might otherwise have – especially with fabric that frays easily or has a nap. Solvy in addition to preparing with fusible backing and trimming closer to the cutting line will ensure a great applique stitch every time.



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Stitching Circles, Dots and Round Objects

Stitching Circles, Dots and Round Objects [machine embroidery] - when the machine is stitching dots and circles, it's "pulling" your fabric inward toward the inside of the circle. Below are a few things that will help you get better results:

• Have you ever noticed some circles or dots look more like ovals after you stitch them? If so, you probably just need to use a little more stabilizer.
• Use a little extra stabilizer just in case, don't wait until you've ruined something - it's just not worth it.
• Keep in mind that everything stitches best on fabric that is stable - make sure there's enough stabilizer so that your fabric isn't able to stretch, pull, shift or move during the stitching process.

I hope this helps!


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Tip - Embroidery Software Settings

Depending on the embroidery program that you use and the settings you have applied, your software may automatically change the embroidery design when you open it in your software. Below are just a few of the settings/changes that your software could be automatically applying to designs:

• Remove short stitches - this setting will remove stitches that are shorter than the setting that is applied
• Convert jump stitches to running stitches - this setting will convert jumps that are longer/shorter than a certain length to running stitches
• Convert satin stitches to fill stitches - some programs make this change automatically and don't have a setting that you can adjust and some will let you determine the widest width to allow a satin stitch to be before converting it to a fill stitch

Want more Tips?
Click HERE for the link to our Helpful Tips & Docs page
Click HERE for a link to our Stitchout or Sewing Problem page



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Tip of the Day - Bobbin Thread

Tip of the Day

Bobbin Thread – before starting to stitch a new item, make sure you have enough bobbin thread on the bobbin to complete it; especially if it will be difficult or impossible to change your bobbin in the middle of the stitch out.



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Design Thread Colors

TIP of the Day - Design Thread Colors

The colors listed in the design are just suggested colors or sometimes just “place holders”. Feel free to use your imagination and make the design your own by changing the colors. If the design you’re working on has several stitch angles and stitch types, you can even eliminate some of the colors [stitch them in the same color] because the angles and types will all reflect the light differently to make them appear to be different colors.

Original Design is 3 colors

Updated Design is 2 colors

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Testers Needed!

Okay ~ if you're a member of my Yahoo Group then you're already aware of the project that I'm working on. There have been several discussions in the group on how to keep your item secure and in place without moving while stitching ~ this goes for hooped and un-hooped items. Really, even more so for un-hooped items because there's more of a challenge attaching your item to the stabilizer that's hooped. I know that someone that's reading this is thinking "why would you only hoop your stabilizer?" ~ well, it's actually easier to stitch most things un-hooped! There are lots of us that don't hoop anything anymore, because it's just so much easier not to.

The solution that several are using is basting stitches around the outside edge of the hoop before starting to stitch their design. This is a great idea because whether your item is hooped or not, it ensures that your item and stabilizer are secure and in place before stitching your design. I made my ribbon templates with the same idea in mind, but didn't realize that there was such a need for everyday stitching on all items.

The problem is this ~ where do you get basting stitches that fit your hoop?

1. Your machine ~ does your machine have a "fix" button? If so, this is probably what it does. So, you should be all set and you can start basting away. If you have any questions, you can probably find the answers in your machine's manual
2. AKDesigns Boutique ~ that's what I'm working on ~ making hoop basting templates for all the different hoops out there.

The hoop templates that I've made so far are listed below [the smallest measurement is first to help with searching] and are in the process of being tested. As soon as the testing is complete, I will add them to the website so that you can start using them.

• 40mm x 60mm = 1.5" x 2.3" template size
• 80mm x 120mm = 3.1” x 4.7” template size
• 100mm x 100mm = 3.9” x 3.9” template size
• 100mm x 170mm = 3.9” x 6.6” template size
• 114mm x 171mm = 4.4” x 6.7” template size
• 120mm x 120mm = 4.7” x 4.7” template size
• 110mm x 126mm = 4.3” x 4.9” template size
• 130mm x 180mm = 5.1" x 7" template size
• 140mm x 200mm = 5.5” x 7.8” template size
• 160mm x 260mm = 6.2" x 10.2" template size
• 200mm x 260mm = 7.8” x 10.2” template size
• 200mm x 300mm = 7.8" x 11.8" template size

If your hoop or hoops aren't listed above and you have a need for a basting template, just e-mail me the hoop size, machine make and model and I'll make the templates for your hoops. The first template that I make for each hoop size will be free to the person that requests it because I will require that they test the template for me ~ so you will be the TESTER :) Please let me know if you have any questions.

Please e-mail the hoop & machine information to angie@akdesignsboutique.com.

Happy Stitching!

Thread Storage Tip

I'm not sure if you have had the same problem with thread storage that I've had, but I have a solution! Well, I didn't come up with it, I read about it somewhere at some point and am just now implementing it :D

I've always used the "June Tailor" thread stands (you get them at Walmart, Jo-Ann's, etc.) for my small cones, but my Isacord thread falls off with the slightest movement. I think I told you that my in-laws were just in town, well I was stitching out a few things for them and my sister-in-law would help with color choices and get so frustrated because every time she picked up 1 thread 3 or 4 would fall to the ground! I've trained myself to be very gentle and pick them up just so (and thread still falls, just not as much). Anyway, that's when I knew it was time to make myself stop and fix the problem! Next time my sister-in-law's in town she will really appreciate it!

Most of you are probably like me, you have use variety of thread manufactures (or have at least bought several kinds). Personally, I prefer Madeira (www.madeirausa.com) and have an account with them, so the cost is very reasonable. My second favorite is Isacord, a little more expensive, but I love the quality and the colors. The thread stands work fine for the Madeira thread, but the Isacord cones just don't want to stay. So, if you have the same problem I hope this helps!

I've listed the steps below and pictures at the bottom.

Steps:
1. Buy some staws (I used the generic Kroger brand flexible straws, but just about any will work). I did buy some at Walmart a while back, but they were too skinny so they wouldn't go down over the pegs. The closer they are to the size of the peg the more stable they will be.
2. Put 1 straw on a peg, then put your cone on the straw. Mark about 1/4" above the top of the cone with a marker. Use this straw as your template to cut all the other straws.
3. Determine about how many pegs you want to put straws on. I have quite a mix of Madeira and Isacord thread, so I put them on every other peg. Another thing to consider is that the Isacord cones are pretty wide at the bottom, so it's better to stagger them every other peg if you can. Then, I also stagger them by row too (see the pic below).
4. Cut your straws
5. Dip the straw about a third of the way into the decoupage (I used Mod Podge - see pic below). Then tap a few times to get the excess off. You will have the decoupage on the inside and outside of the straw.
6. Place on peg.
7. Once it sits for a minute you want to make sure that the decoupage isn't dripping, if it is just wipe it with a paper towel. You do want some to settle around the bottom because this is what will make it really stable.
8. Let dry overnight and put your thread back up!



Hope this helps!

New Designs

Let's see how this first post goes! I've been busy getting ready for spring - I've just digitized 3 beautiful lotus flowers! I can't wait to see what my customers do with them.
Embroidery TIP of the DAY: Don't stretch your fabric when putting it in the hoop.

I'll try to post something new every few days (hopefully at least once a week!)
Angie